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Color Pencil Sketches Of Birds.

The drawing must be cleaned well, removing smudges, dust, or eraser fragments. To notice if there are any small fragments on your paper or drawing, you should look at the draw nigh neatly from a terrible angle, so that you could see them contrasting from the paper`s befall as they rise up. You can use a brush or compressed air to remove the fragments from the framing material.

The glass must be excellently clean and should be tested for finger prints, dust, hair, or other strange material, before securing it permanently in the frame. You may have to do this more than once.

Let your artwork breathe, In attaching the drawing to the backing or whatever secures its shape within the mats or frame, it can only be secured at the top and allowed to hang if an adhesive or tape is used. It must not be secured solemnly at all four corners or around its perimeter, because the humidity changes continually and the paper has to have liberty to flex, expand, and contract. Otherwise, the paper will ripple or develop progressions if it is localized in any means courses in the paper become extremely obvious when the lighting is directional or at an angle to the framed piece of art. The light causes highlight and shadow because of the contours in the paper. Some framers are using a large synthetic photo type corner that allows the paper to slide in and be secure at all four corners and still allow for the flexing of the paper. It seems to be working quite well, as a few of my drawings and illustrations using other media on paper, have been framed this style for a number of years.

Use matting, I prefer using mats with the framing of my drawings. If an acidic matting is use, it should be backed by an acid-free material that will act as a protective barrier between the matting and the drawing. There is a standard thickness that is required and preferred in the industry for this buffer or barrier. The same meditation,brooding,mulling over,reverie,brown study,concentration,debate,speculation,rare cerebration can be given to the backing of your drawing. If your drawing or art is backed or mounted on an acid-free material, the barrier is avoidable . Some framers use a foam-core board for backing.

Always skeleton with glass, I would ever frame in with glass, simply I would besides spend the supernumerary money for the UV safety glass. However, I would never use non-glare glass or plexiglas.

Use acid- gratuitous materials, Whatsoever matting, tape recording or adhesive, barriers, or backing that you use in the framing of your fine art or drawing must be fully acid free. Acidic materials, after long times of time could actually damage the artwork in the frame by distorting the actual paper or by turning the paper a yellowish color.

Stay away from black, As a general rule, I always stay away from black, especially solid black-although, it could work if is part of a color oddity with a particular molding and if it is not overpowering the drawing. It`s good to have something that has a range of values-including molding and mats, working as a set. Even with the values and gradations created within the graphite media, the mat or mats and the frame can all be selected to either compliment, subdue, or emphasize any particular value or aspect of your drawing.

It`s how your completed artwork is presented that makes all the difference. Although it`s teasing to just place your drawing in a ready-made frame, there are a few things that you must take in thinking before framing your artwork to insure it is adequately protected over the years.

Add a protective dust cover, After attaching the art and framing materials to the definite frame, a dust cover should be used on the back to keep additional dust, spiders, or bugs from entering the framed photograph compartment. This is usually done by using a two-sided tape on the back befall of the molding all the trait around the perimeter. Then a piece of brown-colored paper is laid down on the adhesive occur as it is spreaded flat as you press it onto the adhesive make progress . You then trim the outer edges of the brown-colored paper to fit and then you are ready to attach your hanging wire, before placing your artwork on display.

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The Derwent Studio colored pencils are wax-based pencils encased in a hexagonal wooden shaft. The wood is strong and so is the pigmented “lead”. For this reason, the Derwent pencils sharpen to a well-defined point which they can hold for a long period of time without sharpening. This makes them perfect for precise detail work.

Work begins on the legs of the bird. The upper portion of the leg is addressed with a layered application of Ivory Black and white. For the talons, Ivory Black is applied first, followed by a light application of Copper Beech to “warm” the color. This application is then burnished with white.

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The other side of the branch is addressed in the same manner by layering darker tones first, burnishing the application with white, and then lightly applying Mineral Green.

After burnishing the application with white, shadows are darkened with Ivory Black. A light application of Mineral Green is applied to make the branch appear more realistic and to add a bit more depth to the color.

Other Colored Pencil Brands: Prismacolor Pencils in Action Polychromos Pencils in Action Ariana’s Art Colored Pencils in Action Derwent Studio Colored Pencils

The underside of the bird is developed by layering a creamy application of white before darkening with Ivory Black. This creates a gray area that translates as shadow. Marks are pulled throughout the drawing according to the form of the bird. Strokes are made to follow the cross contours.

When it comes to colored pencils, there are several quality brands out there and it can be hard to choose which brand is best for you personally as an artist. The best approach is to experiment, but this can easily get very expensive.

Shadows on the branch are created with Ivory Black and Copper Beech. Applications are lighter on the side of the branch closer to the light source.

Sometimes it is best to see the results of certain brands and make comparisons of how they perform so that you can make a better decision. For this reason, I have created several tutorials that use various brands of colored pencils to help you better understand how they perform and how they are different. I have also created a colored pencil comparison chart which includes the factor of price.

In this lesson, we’ll take a look at one approach to drawing a realistic bird, but we’ll also look at using Derwent Studio colored pencils to do so. The medium and brand that you use for your subject matters greatly. The approach that you take in your drawing is clearly different across various media, but the brand that you use can also play a role in your level of success.

The wing of the bird is developed by layering Spectrum Blue and Prussian Blue. After burnishing with a colorless blender, shadows and textures are defined with applications of Ivory Black.

The basic shapes of the bird are drawn with a light application of graphite. The initial sketch is lightly erased with a kneaded eraser. Initial applications of colored pencil are applied using Copper Beech and Prussian Blue. Copper Beech and Prussian Blue are layered to create natural blacks.

Additional colors are layered. Spectrum Blue is applied to the head of the bird, leaving lighter applications around the top. Values are darkened on the head with additional applications of Prussian Blue. A bit of Golden Brown is applied to the beak and just underneath the eye. The entire application is then burnished with a colorless blender.

The brand of pencil used in this lesson is the Derwent Studio brand. I must say that I am particularly fond of the Derwent brand. In fact, I rate them the highest of all graphite drawing pencils in my comparison chart.

Darker values contrast with lighter values on the last bit of the tail feather. This contrast is enhanced with Ivory Black.

“The Colored Pencil Course” is a members only video course on drawing with colored pencils.  Featuring over 5 hours of video instruction and 146 pages of eBooks, the goal of the course is to provide the student with a comprehensive experience with colored pencils.

This course is designed to guide absolute beginners and intermediate artists to a level of producing professional quality colored pencil drawings through concise and “easy to digest” modules that include HD videos and Ebooks.

 (22 Modules)

The body of the bird is developed next using Copper Beech layered with Crimson Lake and Golden Brown. This application is then burnished using white and the colorless blender. Shadowed areas are developed with Copper Beech, Prussian Blue, and Ivory Black.

White is applied on the top of the head creating a smooth transition to the darker values. Black is used to darken the values on the eye, the beak, and the front side of the bird. Black is also used to add a bit of texture to the head.

New artists have a tendency to grab the cheapest materials for creating their art and unfortunately, this sometimes leads to frustration. Quality materials simply perform consistently, while less quality materials can hinder your success. It is recommended to use the best materials that your budget can muster.

Because the lead is strong, they are somewhat restricted in the amount of material that is applied to the surface. Multiple applications are necessary. Layering colors, of course, is an integral part of drawing with colored pencils so this isn’t a huge issue.

The pencils are easy to grip and marks are produced with relative ease. These pencils are best in the hands of the artist that requires controlled layering of color with gradual increases in depth.

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