Step 7 draw the 2nd set of legs
Step 6 finish the underbelly and the 2 legs and hooves
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Drawing Of A Horse Step By Step.

It`s how your fulfilled artwork is presented that makes all the difference. Although it`s teasing to just area your drawing in a ready-made frame, there are several things that you must take in study before framing your artwork to insure it is adequately protected over the years.

E`er framing with glass, I would ever human body with glass, only I would too spend the surplus money for the UV shelter glass. However, I would never use non-glare glass or plexiglas.

Let your artwork breathe, In attaching the drawing to the backing or whatever secures its bad way within the mats or frame, it must only be secured at the top and allowed to hang if an adhesive or tape is used. It must not be secured firmly at all four corners or around its perimeter, because the humidity changes continually and the paper has to have freedom to flex, expand, and contract. Otherwise, the paper will ripple or develop banks if it is localized in any use spates in the paper become very apparent when the lighting is directional or at an angle to the framed piece of art. The light causes highlight and shadow because of the contours in the paper. Some framers are using a large plastic photo type corner that allows the paper to slide in and be secure at all four corners and still allow for the flexing of the paper. It seems to be working quite well, as a few of my drawings and illustrations using other media on paper, have been framed this practice for a number of years.

Add a protective dust cover, After attaching the art and framing materials to the actual frame, a dust cover can be used on the back to keep supplementary dust, spiders, or bugs from entering the framed photograph compartment. This is usually done by using a two-sided tape on the back betide of the molding all the scheme around the perimeter. Then a piece of brown-colored paper is laid down on the adhesive draw close as it is came as far as flat as you press it onto the adhesive ensue . You then trim the outer edges of the brown-colored paper to fit and then you are ready to attach your hanging wire, before placing your artwork on display.

The drawing can be cleaned well, removing smudges, dust, or eraser fragments. To see if there are any petite fragments on your paper or drawing, you can look at the advance closely from a harsh angle, so that you should notice them contrasting from the paper`s draw closer as they rise up. You may use a brush or compacted air to remove the fragments from the framing material.

Stay away from black, As a general rule, I always stay away from black, especially solid black-although, it should work if is part of a color characteristic with a particular molding and if it is not overpowering the drawing. It`s great to have something that has a range of values-including molding and mats, working as a set. Even with the values and gradations created within the graphite media, the mat or mats and the frame can all be chosen to either compliment, subdue, or emphasize any particular value or aspect of your drawing.

Use acid- costless materials, Whatever matting, tape measure or adhesive, barriers, or support that you employment in the framing of your artistic production or drawing should be fully acid free. Acidic materials, after long times of time should actually damage the artwork in the frame by distorting the definite paper or by turning the paper a yellowish color.

The glass must be exceptionally clean and must be tested for finger prints, dust, hair, or other strange material, before securing it permanently in the frame. You can have to do this more than once.

Use matting, I prefer using mats with the framing of my drawings. If an acidic matting is use, it can be backed by an acid-free material that will act as a territorial barrier between the matting and the drawing. There is a standard thickness that is required and favorite in the industry for this buffer or barrier. The same musing must be given to the backing of your drawing. If your drawing or art is backed or mounted on an acid-free material, the barrier is unnecessary . Some framers use a foam-core board for backing.

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The actual tail is quite short and thin, but there’s long hair attached to it. It’s more like a broom of loose hair than a furry tail. The mane grows from the middle of the neck, and usually falls on one side of it (or “breaks” to fall to the other side as well, creating an effect seen in the first image). Some of the mane hair can land on the forehead.

The ears should be shaped like narrow ovals stuck to the spheres.

Draw two spheres on the top of the head to create the space for ears.

But your job is not done! To draw horses from imagination you need to understand the rhythm of their body and make it intuitive for you. In order to do it you need to draw a lot of horses: from photos, videos, and life. Use this tutorial as a set of tools to draw quickly and purposefully, but learn from real horses to translate my simplifications to the real life.

For a 3D position you need to give the hooves their actual shape. The bottom of a hoof looks like a cut part of an oval. Ovals, or ellipses, can be easily drawn in perspective with one rule: They’re sharp  next to the acute angles…

I’ve shown you how to draw a “general horse,” but horses come in many shapes. Let’s learn how to modify that general recipe to create a few different types of a horse. Keep in mind that my diagrams are slightly exaggerated to accentuate the differences between breeds. You need to study the breed using photos, videos, and real horses if you want to create a perfect image.

Tagged with:anatomy, animals, breed, colors, drawing, head, hooves, horses, how to draw, how to draw horses, Monika Zagrobelna, muscles, realistic, step by step, tutorial

This trick lets you see the shape of the body without drawing all the lines

Start with the main body. It’s fairly similar in all the breeds, so you don’t have to use any special measurements here.

Now add the neck and head. This is the part where the proportions matter a lot. Roughly, the head should be as long as the shoulders, and neck shouldn’t be much longer than that. However, this proportion is not so clear and it’s good to practice it from references to grasp it.

You already know how to draw simple horse hooves, but let’s take a closer look at them this time.

Start with a shape of a flattened teardrop. No matter what perspective you use for this drawing, you need to be able to visualize this form in your head.

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Time for the most fun part. Color your horse using the diagram with popular coats, or create your own fantastic color combination.

Draw an oval between the cheek and muzzle. It’s a complex of various muscles, but it usually looks like one thick muscle and it’s easier to remember this way.

You can now finish the drawing! Keep in mind that horses have a horizontal pupil in their eyes just like goats. In most cases it’s not visible because the eyes are brown or black, but remember it if you want to give your horse blue eyes!

How to Draw Horses: Step-by-Step with Monika Zagrobelna Skip to entry content

This entry was posted in Step-by-Step and tagged Horse on May 28, 2010 by maple.

Step 5: Add a few more lines to the front and rear legs, don’t forget to add the ear.

Once the body is properly constructed, you can add the details: muscles, facial features, and mane with tail.

Again, add a shape of a part of an ellipse to the top of the hoof. It’s slightly rotated, so this can’t be just a copy of the bottom.

Eyes should be slightly protruding, so add humps behind them.

Draw a smaller sphere inside the mouth sphere. This will be the space for the actual muzzle.

These beautiful horses look like an even slimmer, more elegant version of a thoroughbred horse. They have a characteristic round forehead and large eyes, and keep their tail high, even when relaxed. This makes the rump look flatter than in other horses. The neck is arched, though it’s not visible in every pose. Arabian horses can be gray, bay, chestnut, roan, or black.

In this drawing lesson we’ll show you how to draw a Horse in 8 easy steps. This Free step by step lesson progressively builds upon each previous step until you get to the final rendering of the horse.

Ponies are horses as well, just with quite different proportions. Most pony breeds have a proportionate body with shorter legs, but Shetland ponies take this feature to extreme: their legs are often shorter than their torso. If you cover the legs, you’ll see other subtle differences you need to pay attention to. Shetland horses come in all the colors, but are usually chestnut, bay, gray, black, dun, or roan.

Time to find the final proportion: the distance to the ground. It depends on the breed, but in most cases this distance is equal to the height of the main body plus some more distance for the hooves.

Don’t worry if you can’t remember the small parts in joints—you can simply draw the simplified joints you have learned in the previous tutorial.

Horses can also have colors combined in a special pattern. Tobiano horses with black base are called piebald, and the others—skewbald.

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In Drawing and Animating Horses: A FlipBook Tutorial I showed you how to create a horse silhouette with a few simple lines — plus how to create a moving horse out of them. Today, I’ll show you how you can expand your skills to make that simplified horse look real. You’ll learn advanced anatomy, the coat colors, breeds, and a method to draw the hooves and head. I’ll also show you how I drew these horses step by step, along with coloring and shading them in SketchBook here in How to Draw Horses.

The length of tail and mane in nature is quite set for practical reasons: the mane covers part or all the neck, and the tail doesn’t come to the ground. However, if the horse is specially cared for, the hair can grow far longer than that.

Of course, regardless of the color combination, horses can also have white markings on the body that make them look unique. The skin under them is usually pink.

Start with a line defining the general position of the “foot.” Remember about the joints of your finger!

This is a simple lesson designed for beginners and kids with real easy to follow steps. Feel free to print this page and use as a drawing tutorial.

Here are some fun facts about the Horse you might find interesting.

Accentuate the flat forehead. There’s no muscles here, so its form should be very clear.

You can shade the horse to accentuate the 3D form of its body. Use this image as a reference, but adjust it to your own lighting conditions.

Step 3: Sketch the upper neck and lower back towards the tail.

Step 8: Finish by drawing the main and tail to complete this drawing of the Horse.

Draw the intersection of the upper part of the “foot.” You need to use perspective here as well, but it doesn’t need to be perfect.

Add the “cap” to the hoof. Notice how it creates two tips behind the hoof—it’s because the hoof is actually a nail with two edges folded to the back (it’s not a closed shape).

Horses have very diverse coloration, with a complex genetic rules behind all the beautiful coat colors. In theory, there are only two horse colors: black or not black (brown). The other ones are created by additional genes that strengthen, weaken, or mix the actual base colors. You don’t need to become a specialist of genetics to draw a realistic horse; just use this chart for the most popular combinations (I’m sorry if I didn’t include your favorite one—there’s too many!). If you want to know more (or remember it better) I’ll tell you a few words about each color:

If you want, you can add more details to the muscles this way:

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Horses are unique not only because of their proportions, but also because of beautiful mane and hair that’s different than hair on the rest of the body. They’re not hard to draw, but you need to understand how they “work” to create a correct drawing.

The ears are made of thin skin, but it still has some width. Draw the edge of the ears using this width.

Draw a line above to define the top of the hoof. Be very careful about its position in perspective!

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There are so many videos on drawing Horses it was hard to choose. I picked this video because it was very simple, great for beginners and kids using simple shapes you can draw this Horse.

Connect each nostril and the eye with two interconnecting muscles.

The sketch is done! Now you can create the actual drawing using it as a base.

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Again, the lines on the ground define the perspective—they shouldn’t be random!

Cut the sphere in thirds and draw the mouth line, finishing it with round corners.

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You can draw a horse head without any muscles, but they make a drawing more realistic. Let’s learn how to simulate some anatomy in a simple way.

If your horse looks correct in this simplified form, you can now build on it, adding more elements. First you can add width to the legs by sketching the shape of the joints.

Connect both forms with another line to create the lower part of the head.

Let’s add the legs now. You should be able to imagine the default position of them, with all the hooves on the ground. Then you can find a correct position for the joints in motion using this default position as a reference.

The nose can be drawn with one line. This shape can be narrow when the horse is relaxed, and very round when the horse is running or being angry.

Cover the oval with an eyelid. This shape is very characteristic for a horse.

Finish the outline of each foot. In perspective, remember to accentuate the contrast between thin bones and the round parts.

OK, the general shape of the head is done! Let’s draw the details now, one by one.

The top of the head is flattened and it has a certain shape. Draw it, connecting eyes and nose with it.

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This was so much information! Let’s use it now in practice. You can draw from imagination, but it’s better if you use a few references and draw them step by step. This way you’ll understand the process faster. Don’t copy me—analyze what I’m doing and why I’m doing it instead.

Shire horses are draft horses, which means they’re bred for heavy work on the farm. They’re very strong, which shows through their silhouette. They’re big and heavy, so the hooves are noticeably larger and flatter than in other breeds. The head is huge, with the eyes looking small in comparison. Shire horses come in many colors, usually bay, chestnut, gray, black, or roan.

In SketchBook you can paint the shading on a separate layer…

As I mentioned before, the eyes are protruding, so add some form above them. It should look like excessive skin folded over the eye.

This is “typical horse” number two. You can imagine it as a quarter horse modified for racing—its silhouette is slimmer, with longer legs and sharper muzzle. Thoroughbred horses are usually chestnut, bay, black, or gray (roan and palomino can occur as well).

Finish the drawing. It doesn’t need to be as detailed as this, especially when you’re not drawing a close-up.

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Step 4: Draw the beginning of the front legs and the rear legs.

This is “typical horse” number one. Harmoniously built and visibly strong; this is a horse you would imagine working on a farm or carrying a knight to war. Quarter horses come in almost all available colors.

Chestnut: a base color, also called red. Chestnut horses have even color over the body, with the mane and tail either the same color or brighter (chestnut horses with very bright mane band tail are called flaxen).

The actual color can vary from bright red to very dark brown (e.g., liver chestnut). Bay: a very popular color for most breeds. It looks like chestnut with black “points:” lower legs and mane with tail.

Bay horses can have various shades of brown, with a special variation called seal-brown bay. Such a horse sports a very dark shade of brown, with red showing under the belly, before the thigh, behind the elbow, and on the muzzle.

Gray: Gray horses are often confused with white. They are born with some other color, and then they gray out with age. Since they keep a dark skin from their previous coat, they’re never fully white (they often have a darker muzzle and fur around the eyes, unless their original coat had white markings in those places).

Gray horses may look quite differently during their transition into a fully “white” stage. We differentiate, among others, rose gray (a red/brown horse lighted by white hair), flea-bitten gray (almost completely white hair with single red hairs all around the body; it can be the final stage as well), and dapple gray (various shades of gray with spots of white).

White: It’s a rare color, and it happens only if the skin is pink (without pigment). Truly white horses are born white, and they can have blue eyes. White horses are not albino! Palomino: It’s a lightened version of chestnut.

Palomino horses are golden/blond with mane and tail of the same color, brighter, or even white. Buckskin: Just like palomino, but it happens to genetically bay horses. The main coat becomes lighter, while the points stay dark.

Cremello: It’s a whitened version of palomino (but still not truly white). Cremello horses often have blue eyes. Roan: Roan horses have a “normal” color mixed with white hair on the main body. We differentiate strawberry roan (chestnut), bay roan (bay), and blue roan (black).

Black: Different from dark bay, it’s usually tinted with blue or red (if bleached by sun). Black horses are often born as mousy-gray. Dun: It’s thought to be a color of the original wild horses, as Przewalski’s horses are all dun.

Dun horses are tan or mousy-gray (grulla/blue dun), and all of them have a dark stripe coming along their back. They can also show primitive markings: dark stripes on the legs and shoulders. The mane and tail can be frosted with white hair.

Monika Zagrobelna is a Polish artist with a specialty in drawing animals and conceiving of animals that haven’t yet been invented. You can check out more of her work and follow along with her latest tutorials on her Facebook Page.

These lines can be then turned into a subtle pattern of fur all over the body:

Outline the mouth with meaty lips. There should be a prominent chin under them.

Draw a line to the mouth, and end it with a sphere. The space between both forms should be roughly smaller than the sphere.

Create the sides of the head with two lines. This side line should be placed roughly in two-thirds of the head’s height.

We learned how to draw the basic anatomy in the last tutorial, now it’s time to add more detail to it. Short hair of the horse makes its muscles very visible, and drawing a horse without them will make the animal look fat. You can use the diagram below to draw realistic muscles, but there’s also another way.

There’s no need to remember all these muscles, because most of them are not visible most of the time. You can use that diagram for a horse in gallop, or for a shiny, muscular horse, but in most cases you only need to remember these forms. They may look complicated, but give them a try and you’ll see how each of them immediately tells you where to put another one.

Finally, you can make the horse hair shiny to make its form even clearer. Keep in mind this is stylization—horses are not so shiny in nature, especially when they’re covered with warm fur.

… then add the lines for the joints. Notice how you can quickly draw the hooves in perspective without measuring anything.

Outline the cheek. There’s a bony protrusion on top of it, very important for a realistic look.


Draw the back of the ears, wrinkling the skin where necessary.

Horses are able to sleep both standing up and lying down. There are over 300 breeds of horses in the world. Depending on breed, management and environment, the domestic horse today has a life expectancy of 25 to 30 years.

Horses have a skeleton that averages 205 bones. Horses sense contact as subtle as an insect landing anywhere on the body.

To make it all even more realistic, keep in mind the direction of the hair over the body. Pay special attention to the abrupt change of direction before the thigh and on the chest.

… and then change its mode to Multiply to affect the colors underneath.

The pattern of shine depends on the position of the light source, but in general it accentuates the hips, chest, and elongated muscles in the shoulders. Little dots on the joints may make them look more “bony” and detailed. That’s All!

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