Add a protective dust cover, After attaching the art and framing materials to the definite frame, a dust cover must be used on the back to keep supplementary dust, spiders, or bugs from entering the framed photograph compartment. This is usually done by using a two-sided tape on the back draw nigh of the molding all the manner around the perimeter. Then a piece of brown-colored paper is laid down on the adhesive draw nearer as it is came as far as flat as you press it onto the adhesive approach . You then trim the outer edges of the brown-colored paper to fit and then you are ready to attach your hanging wire, before placing your artwork on display.
Utilisation acid- costless materials, Any matting, tapeline or adhesive, barriers, or mount that you employment in the frame of your artistry or drawing can be totally acid free. Acidic materials, after long periods of time may actually damage the artwork in the frame by distorting the actual paper or by turning the paper a yellowish color.
It`s how your completed artwork is presented that makes all the difference. Although it`s teasing to just area your drawing in a ready-made frame, there are numerous things that you can take in rumination,cogitation before framing your artwork to insure it is adequately fortified over the years.
The glass should be tremendously clean and should be tested for finger prints, dust, hair, or other strange material, before securing it permanently in the frame. You could have to do this more than once.
Always shape with glass, I would forever frame with glass, simply I would too expend the supererogatory money for the UV protection glass. However, I would never use non-glare glass or plexiglas.
Let your artwork breathe, In attaching the drawing to the backing or whatever secures its situation within the mats or frame, it should only be secured at the top and allowed to hang if an adhesive or tape is used. It should not be secured firmly at all four corners or around its perimeter, because the humidity changes continually and the paper has to have liberty to flex, expand, and contract. Otherwise, the paper will ripple or develop sets of programmes if it is contained in any procedure chapters in the paper become extremely obvious when the lighting is directional or at an angle to the framed piece of art. The light causes highlight and shadow because of the contours in the paper. Some framers are using a large synthetic photo type corner that allows the paper to slide in and be secure at all four corners and still allow for the flexing of the paper. It seems to be working quite well, as several of my drawings and illustrations using other media on paper, have been framed this custom for a number of years.
The drawing can be cleaned well, removing smudges, dust, or eraser fragments. To notice if there are any petite fragments on your paper or drawing, you can look at the near trimly from a serious angle, so that you may notice them contrasting from the paper`s crop up as they rise up. You could use a brush or compressed air to remove the fragments from the framing material.
Use matting, I prefer using mats with the framing of my drawings. If an acidic matting is use, it can be backed by an acid-free material that will act as a protective barrier between the matting and the drawing. There is a standard thickness that is necessary and favored in the industry for this buffer or barrier. The same reflection can be given to the backing of your drawing. If your drawing or art is backed or mounted on an acid-free material, the barrier is avoidable . Some framers use a foam-core board for backing.
Stay away from black, As a general rule, I always stay away from black, especially solid black-although, it could work if is part of a color scheme with a particular molding and if it is not overpowering the drawing. It`s great to have something that has a range of values-including molding and mats, working as a set. Even with the values and gradations created within the graphite media, the mat or mats and the frame could all be selected to either compliment, subdue, or emphasize any particular value or aspect of your drawing.
Related Images of How To Draw Tiger Step By Step
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This entry was posted in Step-by-Step on November 16, 2012 by maple.
Step 6: Finally, add the stripes and finishing touches to its face, ears and claws.
The tiger is the largest wild cat in the world. Tigers stretch over 6 feet long and can weigh up to 750 pounds (340 kg). Tigers hunt when it’s dark and can more easily sneak up on their prey. A tiger’s roar is so loud it can be heard 5 miles (8 km) away.
Unlike most cats, tigers actually enjoy being in the water and are quite agile swimmers. When exceptionally hungry, tigers have been known to devour up to 65 pounds (30 kg) of meat in one feeding.
Here’s a video on drawing a more advanced but very realistic tiger.
Step 1: Begin by drawing the outline of the head and jaw of the tiger.
Start drawing the tiger by following each of the 6 steps in sequence.
Step 4: Complete the back leg and draw in the eyes, mouth and second front leg.
Here are some facts about Tigers that you might find interesting.
In this drawing lesson we’ll show you how to draw a Tiger in 6 easy steps. This step by step free lesson progressively builds upon each previous step until you get to the final rendering of the Tiger.
Please PAUSE the “How to Draw a Tiger” video after each step to draw at your own pace. For the first few steps, don’t press down too hard with your pencil. Use light, smooth strokes to begin. Step 1: Draw two circles as guides for the tiger’s body.
The circles don’t have to be perfect. They’re just guides. Step 2: Draw a smaller circle above the left circle as a guide for the tiger’s head. Step 3: Inside the head, draw two intersecting lines that will help you place the tiger’s facial features.
Step 4: Draw two small arcs for ears on top of the tiger’s head. Step 5: Draw a couple of lines that connect the circles to form the tiger’s body.
Step 3: Finish drawing the front leg and sketch the rear, tummy, and back leg.