Add a protective dust cover, After attaching the art and framing materials to the actual frame, a dust cover should be used on the back to keep supplementary dust, spiders, or bugs from entering the framed picture compartment. This is usually done by using a two-sided tape on the back forge of the molding all the rule around the perimeter. Then a piece of brown paper is laid down on the adhesive appear as it is spreaded flat as you press it onto the adhesive fall . You then trim the outer edges of the brown-colored paper to fit and then you are ready to attach your hanging wire, before placing your artwork on display.
Use matting, I prefer using mats with the framing of my drawings. If an acidic matting is use, it should be backed by an acid-free material that will act as a protective barrier between the matting and the drawing. There is a standard thickness that is required and preferred in the industry for this buffer or barrier. The same reasoning can be given to the backing of your drawing. If your drawing or art is backed or mounted on an acid-free material, the barrier is unnecessary . Some framers use a foam-core board for backing.
The drawing must be cleaned well, removing smudges, dust, or eraser fragments. To see if there are any tiny fragments on your paper or drawing, you must look at the draw nigh closely from a severe angle, so that you may see them contrasting from the paper`s draw near as they rise up. You may use a brush or compacted air to remove the fragments from the framing material.
Let your artwork breathe, In attaching the drawing to the backing or whatever secures its predicament within the mats or frame, it must only be secured at the top and allowed to hang if an adhesive or tape is used. It can not be secured solemnly at all four corners or around its perimeter, because the humidity changes constantly and the paper has to have freedom to flex, expand, and contract. Otherwise, the paper will ripple or develop rows if it is contained in any practice cycles in the paper become very obvious when the lighting is directional or at an angle to the framed piece of art. The light causes highlight and shadow because of the contours in the paper. Some framers are using a large plastic photo type corner that allows the paper to slide in and be secure at all four corners and still allow for the flexing of the paper. It seems to be working quite well, as several of my drawings and illustrations using other media on paper, have been framed this system for a number of years.
Utilization acid- costless materials, Whatsoever matting, taping or adhesive, barriers, or backup that you usage in the frame of your prowess or drawing should be entirely acid free. Acidic materials, after long periods of time may actually damage the artwork in the frame by distorting the actual paper or by turning the paper a yellowish color.
The glass must be superbly clean and should be tested for finger prints, dust, hair, or other far-off material, before securing it permanently in the frame. You may have to do this more than once.
It`s how your completed artwork is presented that makes all the difference. Although it`s tempting to merely area your drawing in a ready-made frame, there are many things that you must take in introspection before framing your artwork to insure it is adequately safeguarded over the years.
Stay away from black, As a general rule, I always stay away from black, especially solid black-although, it should work if is part of a color roadway with a particular molding and if it is not overpowering the drawing. It`s great to have something that has a range of values-including molding and mats, working as a set. Even with the values and gradations created within the graphite media, the mat or mats and the frame can all be chosen to either compliment, subdue, or emphasize any particular value or aspect of your drawing.
E`er draw up with glass, I would always frame in with glass, only I would too expend the supernumerary money for the UV safety glass. However, I would never use non-glare glass or plexiglas.
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